Merchandising

From the word Merchandise, Merchandising is come. Merchandising is the planning development and presentation of product line for identified target market with regards to prices, assortments, styling and timing. 

Merchandising may be involved in materials manufacturing, apparel manufacturing and retailing levels of apparel business.

Merchandising is the central coordinating point for product line.

Roles of merchandisers or responsibilities of merchandisers are described below: 
                1. Line Planning.
                           i. Evaluating the merchandise mix and for-casting merchandise offerings.
                           ii. Planning merchandise budget.
                           iii. Planning merchandise assortment. 
                2. Line development:

                     i. Line concept.

                     ii. Fashion trend.

                     iii. Group concept. 
3. Product development:

                     i. Creative design.

                     ii. Technical design. 
4. Line presentation:

                     i. At wholesale.

                     ii. At retail. 
5. Costing and pricing. 
6. Sourcing:

                     i. Product.

                     ii. Production. 
7. Coordinating with manufacturing. 
8. Coordinating with quality control. 
9. Coordinating with logistic/ Shipment.

Crimp Amplitude

This refers to the extent to which threads are deflected from the central plane of the fabric.  Thus warp Crimp Amplitude is the extent to which warp threads number deflected from the central plane of fabric.

Enzyme Wash

Enzyme Wash is usually done on the garments made of heavy fabric like denim. For Enzyme Wash we must use cellulase enzyme. The cellulase enzyme hydrolyses the

projecting hairy cotton fabrics on the fabric surface and also removes colors. We know that Pumice Stone impact to irregular color fading effects but enzyme impact on regular color fading effect. 

Steps of Enzyme Wash:

1)      Desizing.

2)      Bio-abrasion.

3)      Back wash.

4)      Additional bleaching.

5)      Residual chlorine removal

6)      Softening treatment.

Sample Recipe:

Desizing recipe, if Lot size is 100Kg Cotton Garments

1. M:L                                                                 =1:5
2. Wetting Agent                                               =0.2-0.5gm/Litter
3. Alpha Amylase base Desizing Agent         =0.5% OWG
4. pH                                                                   =6-8
5. Temperature                                                  =50̊-70̊C
6. Time                                                                =10-15mins

Bio-Abrasion

1. M:L                                         =1:5
2. Pumice Stone                        =20%-150% OWG
3. Enzyme                                   =0.6%-2.0% OWG
4. pH                                           =6.5-7
5. Time                                        =40-90mins

Back Wash:

1. M:L                                         =1:5
2. Reagent                                   =1-3% OWG
3. Soda Ash                                =0.3gm/Litter
4. pH                                            =9-10
5. Temperature                           =60̊-80̊C
6. Time                                        =5-10min

Additional Bleaching

1. M:L                                         =1:5
2. Sodium Hypochlorite            =10-15gm/Litter
3. pH                                           =9-10
4. Temperature                           =20̊-60̊C
5. Time                                        =10-20mins

Neutralization

1. M:L                                              =1:5
2. Sodium Meta-bisulphate          =1-2gm/Litter
3. Temperature                               =40̊-50̊C         
4. Time                                            =10-20mins

Industrial Garments Washing

Industrial Garments Washing is one of the major important parts for Textile sector. By industrial garments washing we can remove dust, dirt and infections material. For improving special look on garments as per fashion requirement.

There are many types of Industrial Wash. These are:

1.     Normal/Detergent Wash(Normal Detergent Wash)

2.     Bleach Wash

3.     Stone Wash

4.     Acid Wash

5.     Enzyme Wash

6.     Caustic Wash

7.     Super-White Wash

8.     Combined Wash.

There is some physical pretreatment related to industrial  garments washing. These are Hand Scraping, Sand Blasting, Whiskering, Tagging, Crinkle Effect, Grinding, and Destroying.

There is also some chemical pretreatment related to industrial garments washing. These are Potassium per Manganate spray, Color Spray. Color spray is also known as tinting.

For garment dyeing and washing plant some machines and equipments are necessary. These are:

1.     Dyeing and washing machine.

2.     Hydro extractor.

3.     Drying machine.

4.     Spray boote.

5.     Brushing mannequin.

6.     Sand blasting unit.

7.     Grinding machine.

8.     Hot pressing machine.

9.     Tag gun.

10.   Minor sewing facilities.

Textile Printing

To produce various designs on the fabric with a motif or motives in one or more colors one kind of localized dyeing that is pigments or a dye are applied locally or discontinuously is known as Textile Printing.
Simply we can say that applying color on fabric by a process for produce a design is terms as Textile Printing. Only fabric is printed by Textile Printing. To make printing paste thickener is used. Comparatively less time required for production.

Steps of Textile Printing:

1. Grey materials
2. Preparation of materials
3. Preparation of printing paste
4. Printing( With a certain style and method)
5. Dyeing at printed fabric (less than 60˚ C)
6. Steaming of the printed fabric
7. After treatment.

Stone Wash

Which garments are made from heavy fabric like denim the Stone Wash is usually done on this type of heavy garments. During Stone Wash different types of irregular color fading effects are produced on garments.

During Stone Wash shrinkage of garments or fabric need to be taken into consideration. Garments made of denim fabrics are first pretreated before Stone Wash. First step of Stone Wash is Desizing then Wash/Rinse then Stone Wash then Detergent Wash then FWA/FBA Wash (Optional) then Softening Treatment (Optional).

Flowchart of Stone wash:

Desizing

↓

Wash/Rinse

↓

Stone wash

↓

Detergent wash

↓

FWA/FBA washes (Optional)

↓

Softening treatment (Optional).

 

Pumice Stone

Pumice Stone is a volcanic rock that consists of highly vesicular or perforated volcanic glass. Pumice Stone is created when super-heated and highly pressurized rock is violently erupted from a volcano.

The unusual foamy configuration of pumice happens because of simultaneous rapid cooling and rapid de-pressurization. Pumice Stone float on water. Pumice Stone commonly originated from Indonesia and Turkey. Different sizes of Pumice Stones are available, such as 2-5cm which known as small Pumice Stone. 3-5cm which known as medium size Pumice Stone. And 5-7cm which is known as Large size Pumice Stone. Chemical Composition of Pumice Stoneis Silica (SiO₂) =70%, Al₂O₃=13%, Fe₂O₃= 2%, Na₂O= 3.5%. The hardness of Pumice Stone in Mohr scale is 6. The melting temperature of Pumice Stone is 15000˚ C and pH value is 8 and the density is 2.313g/cm³.

Normal Wash

Normal Washis the world’s simplest and easiest industrial garments washing. The main aim of the Normal Wash is to remove  the dust, starch, dirt etc. from the garments.

Sometimes softening and bringing used look is also a reason of the Normal Wash. For color garments, Normal wash helps to removal of unfixed dyes can also be achieved to improve color fastness. During Normal Wash shrinkage may be occurred which should take into consideration. For Normal Wash standard liquor ratio is 1:5. Put detergent only 1% during Normal Wash and temperature should not more that 40-60˚ C. Temperature should increase if necessary. Time required for Normal Wash is about 15-30 Minutes.

Garments Dyeing Machine

Garments Dyeing Machine can be classified into two groups based on their construction:

1. Pedal Garments Dyeing Machine.
2. Rotary Garments Dyeing Machine.

Pedal Garments Dyeing Machine: Pedal Garments Dyeing Machine is the oldest type of Garments Dyeing Machine. For woolen knitwear this type of machine was primarily used. This type of machine can also divided into two sub-groups based on their design of pedal used. a) Over head pedal dyeing machine. b) Side pedal dyeing machine. This machines liquor ratio is very high and manual labor involvement is also high.

Rotary Garments Dyeing Machine: To move the garments and liquor in the machine during dyeing Rotary Garments Dyeing Machine has a perforated rotatable drum. Rotary Garments Dyeing Machinehas two big cylinders which one inside another. The outer drum or cylinder is fixed with the floor. Inner drum is perforated and able to rotate both clockwise and anti clockwise directions. Inner drum can rotate at a speed of 5 to 35 rpm. Inner cylinder or drum has three triangular shaped bar located at a distance of 120 degree.

Additive

A variety of material added to fiber forming polymer to change its properties and improve its performance, they are known as additives.

1. Delustering agent: TiO, TiO₂.
2. Solution dyeing.
3. OBA: Denjamidajole, parasoline.
4. Heat stabilizer: Salt of Cu, Mn as phosphate.
5. Light stabilizer: Poly hydroxyl benzophenol.

Drawing/Stretching

The process by which the yarn or fiber is elongated by passing it through a series of pair of rollers, each pair moving faster than the previous one is called drawing. It is a system which removes stable/weak and brittle properties of filaments.

Objects of drawing/stretching:

1. To increase strength.

2. To reduce creepe properties

3. To increase orientation and crystallinity

4. To remove brittleness

Condition of drawing: Three factors are considered for drawing:

1.Drawing ratio: During drawing the ratio of speed of front roller to the back roller is called drawing ratio.

                  Drawing ratio = (V2/V1) ; where, V2>V1

2.Draw temperature

3.Draw speed:

A	8.4m/min
B	36 m/min
C	116 m/min
D	170 m/min
E	258 m/min

Crimp Percentage

It is defined as the mean difference between the straightened yarn length and the distance between the ends of the yarn while in cloth expressed as 
Crimp percentage.

Crimp percentage = (l-p/p)*100

Yarn Crimp

Due to interlacing of warp and weft threads, a certain amount of waviness is imparted to the warp and weft yarn in fabric. This waviness is called Yarn crimp.
Hence the apparent length of yarn as it exists in the fabric is less than its original or straightened length.

Pills

Pills are small knots or balls of mixture of large number of small fibers accumulated at the surface of the fabric and entangled by the mild frictional action during processing or wearing. They are soft but firmly held on the fabric create a fabric fault.

Mechanism of pilling: Pilling is a fabric surface fault characterized by little balls of entangled fiber clinging to the cloth surface. Pilling happens due to wearing of the surface. The surface of fabric when abraded the constituent fibers from the surface get liberated and becomes loose and further abrasion brings out entanglement on its surface.